Our Soft Winter Adventure in Iceland: An Unforgettable Christmas Itinerary
If you’re Googling “what to do during the winter in Iceland” and quietly wondering whether it’s too dark, too cold, or too intense, let me save you some scrolling.
Iceland might only get three to four hours of daylight in winter, but it’s also one of the safest, calmest, and most tourist-friendly destinations in the world. Somehow, those two factors coexist beautifully… even in the dead of winter.
This was my second trip to Iceland. My first visit, back in 2017, was my first solo international trip. Iceland gave me the confidence to keep traveling solo in a way I didn’t expect. So much so that in 2019, I helped plan a friend’s first transformational solo trip here too! I cannot stress enough how perfect this destination is for first – time solo travelers.
P.S. Y’all see those 34-year-old abs peeking? Clock it!!!
Coming back in winter, this time with my mom, felt full circle. Although it was her idea to do Christmas in Iceland, I love bringing her back to places I’ve been so that she can experience it too. I designed a soft adventure itinerary for us in collaboration with Icelandia that allowed us to see the natural wonders of Iceland at an easy pace.
Let’s address the big concern first: SAFETY
The first thing people will tell you as a woman traveling is, “Don’t walk around at night.” But here’s the thing about winter in Iceland: it’s almost always night.
In late December, you can expect about 3 hours of sunlight each day. The sun rises slightly around 11AM and starts setting again around 3PM. If you’re the kind of person who waits for daylight to feel “allowed” to move around, you’d never leave your hotel.
Iceland consistently ranks among the safest countries in the world. Crime rates are low, people are helpful without being intrusive, and there’s an unspoken respect for personal space and nature. I was impressed at how normal things operated “in the dark.” Life still happened. The streets were still alive. People still commuted, worked from coffee shops, and moved around freely.
What struck me most wasn’t just that Iceland has low crime rates. It’s that safety here also feels like part of the structure. I realized that we don’t often consider organizational structure when it comes to how safe a place is, and that is really just as important as low crimes rate.
Here is what I mean:
- Infrastructure is well maintained. You’ll notice clearly marked sidewalks, dependable public transportation, and winter-ready roads.
- Tours are highly regulated. There are strict safety standards, weather monitoring, clear communication from operators, and contingency plans.
- Guides are extensively trained. While they were great at storytelling, I noticed something different about the guides. They were well versed in winter navigation, crowd management, and risk assessment. Many of our guides also had travel experience outside of the country. I noticed that this made a positive difference in how they interacted with tourists. It seems like they knew what “confusion” to anticipate.
Although complete safety can never be guaranteed, this level of safety definitely provides reassurance for solo travelers, new travelers, and intergenerational travelers.
Winter in Iceland Itinerary
Starting in Reykjavík…
We began our trip in Reykjavík, using Flybus PLUS for airport transfers from Keflavík International Airport. If you’re researching how to get from Keflavík to Reykjavík, this is one of the most stress-free options (especially in winter when driving yourself may feel intimidating and private taxi rides can run as high as $150 USD.
Our hotel, Sand Hotel by Kea Hotels, was centrally located in downtown Reykjavík on Laugavegur Street. It’s a mostly pedestrian street, so we were dropped off at the closest bus stop and had to walk in.
That evening, we were supposed to join a small-group Northern Lights tour, but due to the weather it was cancelled. Fortunately, Icelandia allows you to rebook the tour every night until you see the Northern Lights or until you leave Iceland… whichever comes first. Unfortunately for my mom and I, leaving Iceland came first. We were rebooked twice, but did not get to see them.
Since our tour was cancelled, we decided to take a short nap to wind down from traveling overnight and then head out to explore our immediate area and grab a bite to eat.
During our walk, we stumbled upon the Magic Ice Bar. An underground bar cave made entirely of ice sculptures. We spent about an hour or so here marveling at the ice sculptures, enjoying our drinks, and taking tons of silly photos.
We ended our “self-guided tour” at Bastard’s where I had my first reindeer burger and a flight of amazing locally-brewed, seasonal beer!
Christmas Walk (Reykjavík Walking Tour)
Do not overlook the beauty of a simple walking tour of Reykjavik in the winter… especially during the Christmas season!
On Christmas Eve, we met our guide outside the Whale Watching office near Reykjavík Harbour, bundled up and ready to explore the city on foot. Having done some exploring the night before, we definitely got comfortable with the downtown area quickly. As we walked with the group, we were able to look at places and say to ourselves, “Oh we came down this way yesterday!” The added bonus was we were now learning about the historical or cultural narrative of each place.
Because it was Christmas Eve, our particular walk was built around Icelandic Christmas traditions. We learned how Icelanders celebrate the season, how folklore and faith intertwine, and how winter darkness has shaped traditions over generations.
And then there were the snacks…
Along the way, we sampled Icelandic staples—including fermented shark, pudding, and dried cod fish. It wasn’t gimmicky or rushed; it felt like cultural context you could actually taste. History and gastronomy were woven together in a way that made everything more memorable.
Our guide was pretty engaging, knowledgeable, and clearly proud of Icelandic culture. She balanced storytelling with humor and made sure no one felt lost or overwhelmed.
Even outside of Christmas, I’d still recommend a walking tour of Reykjavik. In fact, when I first visited Iceland solo in October 2017, a walking tour like this was the very first thing I did. It helped me acclimate to the city, understand how everything connected, and move with more confidence for the rest of my trip.
My Advice: If you’re planning an Iceland city itinerary, a guided walking tour is one of the best ways to ground yourself before venturing farther out. It’s gentle, informative, and sets the tone for everything that follows.
The walking tour was a half-day morning tour, so we still had the afternoon free. While planning, I learned from the staff at Icelandia that Christmas Eve is the most sacred time of the season for Icelanders. In other words, Christmas Eve in Iceland is much more important than Christmas Day. You can expect everything to shut down by 4PM on Christmas Eve as the evening is reserved for traditions, family, and friends.
That afternoon, we decided to make our way over to the Icelandic Lava Show before they closed for the day. Listen, that was a real cool experience! The moment the lava poured into the room, you could feel the intense heat. The little nerd in me was utterly impressed that we were in Iceland watching people play with lava.
Christmas Eve did not even there for us though. After the Lava Show we hopped in a cab and went home to wind down before dinner and Christmas Eve service at Hallgrimskirkja.
We had Christmas Eve Dinner with an elaborate menu at Hjá Jóni Restaurant before our Christmas Eve service… but listen…
It was nothing to write about.
We would’ve been better off with another reindeer burger.
We still took a few cute pics with the decor before we left though!
Golden Circle & Secret Lagoon Tour
Now, these are two activities that you can choose to do completely separate or together like we did. That depends on the time you have in Iceland and your transportation. If I were driving, I’d probably do these tours on two separate days.
We did the Golden Circle & Secret Lagoon Tour on Christmas Day. Not only was it exciting to see that they were open on Christmas, but it was such a cool opportunity to do something completely out of the norm for Christmas Day.
With limited daylight, you don’t want a stretched-out itinerary that has you rushing or squinting in the dark. This express route gives you the heavy hitters, timed well, with just enough space to breathe.
Our first stop was Þingvellir National Park, and this is where Iceland reminds you of how small you are in the world. You’re standing between two tectonic plates—North America and Eurasia—watching history, geology, and nature overlap in real time. It’s kind of surreal to see…
Next we visited Geysir, home to Strokkur, a geyser that erupts every few minutes. Now Strokkur didn’t put on much of a show for us. When I visited in October 2017, I got drenched standing on the wrong side of the (I thought I was the genius who found the less crowded area…lol), but this year we barely got a little burp. It felt a little underwhelming, but it was still nice to visit the spot that had me running for my life 8 years ago!
Last stop on the Golden Circle express tour was Gullfoss. Loud. Icy. Majestic. It’s crazy because it’s like the mist freezes in the air, the water roars beneath layers of ice, and you just stand there like… whoa… this is massive.
After that tour, we relaxed in the Secret Lagoon for about two hours. The Secret Lagoon is one of the oldest geothermal pools in Iceland. It’s not flashy at all… Just a chill, laid back experience with smaller crowds and the countryside as your backdrop.
Now listen, the water in the Secret Lagoon is so hot that your body immediately forgets it’s winter when you are submerged up to your neck.
As soon as I was fully in the water, the steam engulfed my face and I simply felt warm.
The only reminder of how cold it is, is that brief, unavoidable dash from the locker room to the water which is honestly a full comedy show.
It’s hilarious to watch just about everyone doing that same quick tip toe run with their towels clutched tight, backs hunched over, and pretending not to sprint while absolutely sprinting.
Sidenote: This is also the perfect moment to clear something up. A hot spring is a natural geothermal water source. A lagoon is what happens when that hot spring is intentionally shaped for soaking—making it accessible, safe, and comfortable for people to actually enjoy. Therefore, not all hot springs are called lagoons. I’m mentioning this because I actually thought that all hot springs in Iceland were called lagoons!
Also… I cannot stress how important swim caps are for Black women in hot springs! The silica will have your hair feeling like a used, but dry washcloth.
The Famous Blue Lagoon
The Blue Lagoon is probably the most popular hot spring among tourists in Iceland. It costs a pretty penny to get in, but once you are in, you can stay for the day. There is a bar, restaurant, and cafe on site.
Many might say that the Blue Lagoon is way too touristy and expensive, but I honestly think it is worth the trip. It’s just a dope experience that you wouldn’t have everyday. The water is warm sky blue, and the steam sweeps across the water in such a gorgeous cinematic manner. It feels surreal.
My mom and I purchased the premium package at the Blue Lagoon. That gave us two drinks at the bar and cafe, three face masks, and a robe. We arrived around noon to maximize daylight hours, and left around 7PM. We stopped around 4PM for a late lunch at their on-site restaurant, Lava.
FYI, the on-site restaurant is a bit pricey, but the food is good!
We also used round-trip transfers to Blue Lagoon from our hotel in downtown Reykjavík with Reykjavik Excursions by Icelandia. It took approximately 45 minutes to get there from downtown. It is closer to the airport though, so many people choose to visit the Blue Lagoon first and stay closer to the airport before venturing into Reykjavik OR, as I did on my first trip, relocate to a hotel closer to the airport and the Blue Lagoon towards the end of their trip.
I didn’t think the 45 minute ride was too bad, so I preferred just taking the bus to and from Reykjavik the second time around. During my solo trip in 2017, I relocated to Grindavik to visit the Blue Lagoon and then head to the airport, but I felt like there wasn’t much to do there outside of the Lagoon.
The South Coast
On our last full day in Iceland, we ventured to the South Coast. This is where we encountered even more majestic waterfalls and the eerily beautiful Black Sand beach that I missed on my first visit.
My mom followed Iceland’s 2021-2023 volcanic eruptions closely on YouTube. She remembered watching footage of people flying in from all over the world just to see it. She was tickled at how some people were on TV grilling meat on the volcano despite repeated warnings not to be out there. That curiosity sent her down a rabbit hole of Iceland’s natural wonders years ago, so it was exciting to see her experiencing it now while things were “quiet.”
Our South Coast tour was a full-day experience, and honestly, it might be the clearest example of what I mean when I say soft adventure. This wasn’t adrenaline-chasing. No crampons. No cliff-hanging. And, no heart-racing moments where you wonder if you signed up for too much. Instead, it was a beautifully paced journey where we stayed bundled in our warmest winter gear, watching Iceland unfold from stop to stop.
And for traveling with my mom? Perfect.
We started off at Skógafoss.
Icy. Loud. Powerful. Commanding.
The force of it is impossible to ignore. You don’t need to climb the nearby steps or push yourself to feel the impact, but the option is there! You can literally just stand still and feel it how powerful it is.
We stopped at the town of Vík next and was given some time to have lunch and explore the area. This was the only thing to note about the tour. Our food, was mid and took a bit longer than we anticipated, so we didn’t get to explore Vík as much as we wanted to. If I were to do it again, I’d grab a snack with a local beer and then head out to explore.
The next stop was the infamous black sand beach, Reynisfjara, that I had heard so much about. The jet-black sand paralleled with the stories of tourists succumbing to its waves gave the experience an ominous undertone.
When it came to safety at the Black sand beach, the guides were firm, clear, and unapologetic about boundaries near the water. No mixed messages. No playing around. Safety here isn’t passive…it’s actively enforced. But of course… some people still get a little too close to the water, regardless of the fact that the warnings are clear… this beach is deadly.
Next up was the Sólheimajökull glacier.
Sólheimajökull is one of those places where you really don’t need to do anything extreme to feel the impact.
Up close, you can see exactly how climate change is reshaping Iceland’s landscape. The guide shared that this glacier has been steadily retreating, leaving behind a quiet, iceberg-dotted lake that feels almost surreal against the rugged terrain. It’s beautiful in a way that makes you pause because it’s stunning and sobering at the same time.
We watched small groups gearing up to hike the glacier with their crampons on and guides leading the way. I turned to my mom and joked, “We can hike it next time.”
She didn’t miss a beat: “I’m good right here. Those things are moving. I saw it on YouTube.”
All I could do is laugh! It was a fair point. She was right!
Nonetheless, standing at the edge, fully bundled, taking it all in without slipping, sliding, or strapping metal to our boots felt exactly on brand for this trip. This was soft adventure at its finest. Close enough to feel the power, far enough to feel safe.
Our final stop was the Seljalandsfoss waterfall. We arrived just after sunset, so we were able to witness a beautiful nighttime glow.
This waterfall appeared like something out of a storybook. Freezing water poured down in a fury while groups of tourists made their way to the path behind the water.
My mom made it clear that it was too cold and dark to end up getting wet from getting too close, so we stayed back and admired it from a safe distance.
Now… I did get a little closer when she went to grab coffee, but I turned back immediately after that first gust of watery wind!
Winter in Iceland is a Good Time…
A family friend asked me this year, “Why do you and your mom always go somewhere cold for Christmas when it’s already cold in New Jersey? Don’t you want to escape?”
I shared with her, that cold winter vacations are just as fun an hot beach vacations. We’re not looking to escape, we’re looking to experience. We love the holiday atmosphere, the seasonal activities, and the overall experience of witnessing how other countries and cultures interact during this time of the year.
Needless to say, Christmas in Iceland was a wonderful experience. Although we didn’t get to experience the large European Christmas Markets that we love, we did get a chance to experience Iceland’s unique Christmas traditions, indulge in natural hot springs, tour ethereal wonders, and witness an 11:30 AM sunrise.
Although an Icelandic winter can still be intense, this trip reminded me that winter doesn’t automatically mean harsh, blistering conditions. I might have told a different story if we’d encountered nonstop snowstorms or whiteout conditions. But… this was my experience.
Calm.
Relaxing.
And most importantly… doable.
When I think about it… Iceland gave me independence in 2017.
It gave my friend the same confidence in 2019.
And this winter, it gave my mom and I a soft winter adventure that allowed us to experience natural wonders that seem intangible at an easy pace.
For us, it was absolutely worth it…
